The Subaru heads for Montana

Mark and DeeDee were so generous to let me take their car when I needed to get home from the Columbia Gorge. And now their friends Pam and Jim are taking it back to Helena as they return from a vacation on the coast. For those of you who like the limericks, here's today's rhyme -- fresh from the limerick machine:

In the care of your good friends we send
The car you were were so kind to lend.
I'm happy to say
That without delay
The hand-off is done in North Bend.

Roadside markers

It struck me that many of the folks following the blog might not be familiar with the roadside memorials so prevalent in Montana (and other western states).  This memorial was a few miles east of Wibaux, along the fence-line separating the railroad from I-94.  Most times the placement, a crossroad, a sharp curve or a RR crossing seems to be part of the story.  Other times the story is not so obvious. Several days ago we passed a marker with five crosses...a family?, a car full of kids?  Always sobering.

Rob

Flat tire club

I am now an official member, although I was able to complete our ride from Wibaux to Medora with two pump-ups and do the repair at camp. Ditto Rob, so he is now with three, me with one. These latest were the usual tire wires.

Sue

Heading to Medora, ND

Sue

Rob was disappointed

Closed Mon-Wed.

Sue

Dee Dee on new bike in Wibaux, MT

Sue

Dinner in Wibaux, MT

Wait staff all wore this t-shirt.

Sue

Frontage road Terry to Fallon

So Mark was just riding along, and all of a sudden.......

Sue

Ode to Flat Tires

There's nothing that quite provokes ire
Like a slow leak or sudden flat tire.
You'll find, at that juncture,
What caused the blamed puncture,
Be it glass or a nail or a wire.

At city park

In Fallon MT. Schnauzer folks in Terry MT called their friends in Fallon to see if we could camp at city park. Okay if we brought our own water and toilet paper. So we did and here we are.

Sue

Dinner in Miles City

At the Montana Bar and Steakhouse

Sue

Dee Dee is trying to set the record

~ Sue
>
>

look who I met today

Ellie!

Miles City Ho!

Resting quietly outside of Miles City after 17 miles on I-94.

-Rob

Shady lunch stop

Sue

Most interesting place in Hysham, MT

Sue

Dee Dee finds a shady spot for lunch

Sue

Hmmm.....which way to go?

Outskirts of Forsyth, MT

Sue

Rob finds a use for the spatula

Lots of flies tonight, camped across from the stockyard.

Sue

Dee Dee's new friend

150 pound Malemute named Denali from Custer, MT

Note comparison of foot sizes.


Sue

Change of Cast

Sue is back riding with the group today. Bruce has gone to help his Dad for a few weeks and will rejoin the ride in August. Carol and Perry hope to rejoin the ride in North Dakota.

Yellowstone cellars

Great layover day in Billings.   Sue rejoins the ride.  Bruce will catch a plane for Eugene tomorrow for his father's surgery.

Tasting great wine at Clint's winery.

Update

> Sign reads:
> Billings Best Flour
> Costs more - worth it
> Occidental grain company
>
> Reeds Point is pretty sleepy. Nice folks cycling from nearby. No open businesses downtown. Replica sheep on a dais at the south end of town, likely in honor of the annual running of the sheep through downtown. 
>
>
> Bruce

Jackson Creek Road

Leaving Bozeman early on the 22nd. Bridgers in the background.

~ Rob

Check in time at 3:00

We tried to check in, get shower, maybe watch some reality TV, but its too early to get a room at the Greycliff Prairie Dog Motel.

Maybe next time.

- Bruce

Darn! I hear they've been building some nice multi-bedroom condos.

- Susan

One month on the road

> Today we left Ellie's pleasant backyard in Bozeman after a relaxing afternoon which included bunch prepared by gracious upstairs neighbors,  Sam and friend Alex; fixing Alex's bike and putting touring racks on Ellie's bike.
>
> Ellie escorted us out of town toward Joe Gabb Pass up Bridger Road.  A beautiful spot.   Then into Livingston,  MT with a stop for groceries and lunch.  Back on our trusty steeds and off with a big tailwind to Grey Bear Fishing Access Site along the Yellowstone River a few miles east of Big Timber, MT.   Arriving at Grey Bear we picked out a site and went for a dip in the Yellowstone River.  Yet  another beautiful cycling day completing another 67 miles (total of 1124 miles)
>
> DD

While I'm not biking

Having found myself unexpectedly home on my birthday, I rustled up a little party. With very short notice, a delightful gathering on our patio. It was exactly what I wanted, except missing my favorite twin.

~ Carol

In the B-Zone

In Bozeman. Ushered in on fabulous sneak route. Beautiful day here. Nice temperature. Nice ride in through the rural valley. 

~ Bruce

Headwaters State Park

Bruce and Rob cook spaghetti and meatballs at Missouri Headwaters State Park after a great 64 mile day.

Proper attire is our middle name

Boulder Hot Springs

> Camping above the May Hotel at Boulder Hot Springs.

Ready for relaunch

The crew prepares to leave the very comfortable home of Bruce and Sue after a great two day layover.   Time for visiting friends, reading mail, buying new travel toothpaste, etc.  Off for an evening soak at Boulder Hot Springs.

Helena !

Margo's plans ended up in a casket.

Carol's knees just about blew a gasket.

Heat made Perry feel bad;

Sue had to go help her Dad;

But the last four got to Helena handbasket.

Congratulations to Rob, Bruce, Dee Dee, and Mark. Also to Sue, who was almost there when her Dad broke his hip. Sue's friend Bob picked her up in Lincoln, MT Monday afternoon and she was on the 6:10 a.m. flight out of Helena on Tuesday and at the hospital in Portland by 10:30. Sue plans to rejoin the group as soon as she can. 

Blackfoot Valley

Between Clearwater Junction and Ovando. A rare moment when no cars were in sight.

-Sue

Ovando Hoosgow

Mark and DeeDee enjoy the front porch. Beds were strung with rope, but comfy with Big Agnes mattresses on top. Unfortunately, it was so hot inside that they were setting up their tent on the lawn within five minutes of retiring for the night.




Sue

New state, new time zone

The crew of five arrived in Missoula yesterday, and left for Ovando this morning. I'm guessing that puts them a day and a half out of Helena.

~ Carol

Woman we met today

Cross country cyclist on Lolo Pass with her dog in basket. Sometimes it trots alongside her. She was traveling alone.

-Sue

Bike tour hygiene

When you bike and camp with limited sets of clothing, you can wash yourself and your clothes every day, and still have only dirty clothes to put on after your shower. On the bus towards home, still "fresh" from camping, this limerick came to me.

We cycled through valleys, past farms
The countryside has many charms
But sweat leads to stinking
And so I am thinking
In public I can't raise my arms

~ Carol

Another Twin Dismounts

My knees took a real beating, probably from Tuesday's 5000' cumulative elevation climb. By Wednesday's end it was excruciating to even follow the pedals around, even on a downhill coast. I elected to turn towards home, rather than commit deeper into the mountains, where rescue would be increasingly problematic. Perry, battered by the long hot days, decided to turn back and support me.

Extremely convenient and cheap was the Appaloosa Express bus, which got us from Kooskia to Lewiston by 10:05 am, with bikes on rack, for $2 each. We went to the local bike shop to box the bikes, expecting to FedEx them while we looked for further bus options. At the library to research such options we realized renting a car was by far easier than partial connections and inconvenient schedules of public transportation. We made a rental reservation, attempted to find the local bus stop to the airport rental, when a kind stranger offered us a ride. Then we picked up the bike boxes and were on our way. Whew! Almost too easy.

Seeing the hard work of our route unravel so quickly in reverse reminded me of playing a cassette backwards: Kooskia, Kamiah, Lewiston, Clarkston, Pataha, Pomeroy, Dayton, Waitsburg, Walla Walla, Touchet, Umatilla, Plymouth, Paterson, Roosevelt, Maryhill, Biggs...blweep, blweep, blweep. (Sorry if the cassette reference is lost on you young folks.)

I hold out some hope that by resting and avoiding the Rockies my knees might recover enough to rejoin the tour later on. Meanwhile the "honorary twins" march on toward Montana: Dee Dee, Mark, Sue, Bruce, and Rob. Blogging will most likely continue, with other authorship.

All for now,
~ Carol

Tired Lads

At camp this afternoon. Carol said it was 97 degrees near Kooskia.

July 10, Camus Prairie, Idaho

Photo of trestle over Lawyer's Canyon. Historic waysides indicate we went through a region known as Camus Prairie, a name familiar from my youth, though I'm not sure I've ever been here. From camp we went through the towns of Craigmont, Ferdinand, Kamiah, and Kooskia.

Not much uphill, some good glides down, notably into Kamiah, then we're cruising along at river grade with the middle fork of the Clearwater. Still, my knees were fried, probably leftover from yesterday's long hill climb. By the end of the day they were saying "whatever you're doing, stop it right now." Down in the valley we're hot again, 96 deg. when we went through the last town. Should be cooler tomorrow.

July 9th, Old Winchester Grade conquered

DeeDee and Mark leading the charge up the hill. 2000' elevation gain in 8 miles in 2 hours. Lowest gear, frequent stops. Magnificent views as we transition from rolling wheat, barley and hay to forest. Today's mileage 41.5. I, and I believe others, are pretty tuckered out. I would even dare to admit grumpy on my part, having struggled with shifters that don't work as smoothly as they did before their "tune up" last night.

We're in a beautiful forested campground on the shores of Winchester Lake, aptly named Winchester State Park.

~ Carol

One sweet downhill

Here's an example of a sweet view: cresting one of the rolling Palouse hills, looking down into our destination of Waitsburg.

July 7-8, 2013, Lewiston, ID

Left camp by 7:00 am, our "usual" time. Some hill climb, in fact 2 miles from the "chain up area" sign to the summit of Alpowa pass. The hill climb was quite pleasant in the morning cool, not requiring the lowest gear. From the summit the views were great, including Steptoe Butte (Elwoods will know what Mom gives you if you are the first one in the car to say 'I see Steptoe Butte'). After that a loooong descent down to the Snake river. A quick stop at Chief Timothy bridge, a quaint and historic bridge left standing to commemorate a Nez Perce chief friendly to the white settlers. Arrived in Clarkston to do some shopping, then found the bike path to cross the river and find our current spot, Hells Gate State Park. Arrival at 11:30 means a leisurely wait in the shade until 1:00 check in time at Lewis & Clark Discovery Center.

We passed the 500 mile mark for the trip a few miles ago.

I must say the local bikers are very friendly and helpful. One in front of Albertsons asked where we were camping and whether it would be ok go bring us a pie. Another on the bike path not only told us but escorted us to the confusing bridge access, recommending a better cycling bridge than the one on our map. Another flock of cyclists meeting us on the path gave each of us a cheerful Hello.

Update:  layover day on Monday, but no pie showed up last night.  Oh well, the fact that an offer was made was delicious.

We biked into downtown Lewiston, found free public wifi outside the closed library, then parked ourselves at a wifi coffee house, the Blue Lantern.  Miraculously they can meet some of our grocery needs, with small packets of organic Idaho cereal grains and bananas.

A huge gratitude to Dee Dee and Bruce for calculating reasonable hops for our next several days.

~ Carol
About wifi:  I thought when buying an iPad 6 months ago that wifi would be the way to go,  that I wouldn't need to purchase a cell plan for data transmissions.  Now, surrounded by cyclists who can get data almost anytime they want with their smart phones, I'm feeling oh so out of date.  It's reminding me of traveling 14 years ago, when we had a laptop and crawled under the occasional desk (of a willing but surprised helper) to plug our phone cord into a jack to get email.

~ Carol

Chief Timothy Memorial Bridge

West of Clarkson WA, an abandoned bridge on the old highway.

This morning we had a relatively short  (7 miles or so) ride to Alpowa Summit at about 2600+ feet (only 400 feet lower than Snoqualmie Pass) and a huge downhill zoom to the Snake River at 850 feet. Bought groceries in Clarkston's Albertsons and found our way onto the bike trail. We were scratching our head on how to cross the Snake to Idaho, when we met a friendly local cyclist who gave us a personal escort to the proper bridge approach via bike trail. At the grocery, Bruce talked to a woman who asked where we were staying tonight and said she might bring us a pie at our campground. We will see.....and I will report back.

It is really hot in Lewiston; our campground is cool and shady; so we decided to take a layover day here.

Sue

Along the road today

Photo by Sue as the cyclists were sailing along yesterday.

Killdeer and nest

Sue

Shopping in small towns

Usually we can find what we are looking for.

Sue

Garfield County Fairgrounds

Rode over hill and dale in the Palouse today, past Dayton and on to Pomeroy, where we bought groceries and found a taco stand with shaded tables before continuing on to the deserted fairgrounds. Bruce and Rob were the cooks tonight and made the 50s classic casserole of tuna, mushroom soup, peas (frozen, not canned), and crushed potato chips. A few groans, but the pot was cleaned out in record time.

Sue

This looks like where I come from

Today's miles, 47 or so, after cruising back and forth in Pomeroy. Camping in the beautiful Garfield County Fairgrounds outside of Pomeroy. Total trip miles, 470 on day 12, 11 riding days. I'm told my odometer is reading slightly higher than others.

I was delighted to see wind turbines now present among the wheat fields I call home. We really didn't travel this road much when I was young, but the town names are familiar, Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy, and the landscape certainly so. I saw a cluster of turbines with blades stacked up in an artsy out of phase dance, so I stopped to take a video. Got to camp and viewed what turned out to be about 5 seconds of putting the camera away. So much for sun on the screen...I never quite know what I'm doing.

Some of us, me included, ran out of energy before we stopped pedaling. My Mom's term for this was "running out of sawdust", named for old fashioned toys stuffed with sawdust...until they spring a leak. Perry and I looked for a library in Pomeroy (closed), then found a cafe with wifi, where we felt obliged to have huckleberry milkshakes.

I joined the elite club that now wears tight white sleeves to protect from sun, dually to reflect the sun to stay cool. My exposed skin has turned darker than I've seen it, and I think avoiding the extra sticky skin from sun cream is a plus. I'll try to post a photo.

Tomorrow on to Clarkston, Lewiston, and a little beyond to camp. We'll then be in Idaho, our third state, and in towns we frequented when young. I hear we'll do a lot of climbing out of camp, the Wichester  grade, on Monday in order to avoid a no-shoulder road out the Clearwater River I remember many times as a kid.

~ Carol

July 5th

We ate an excellent early lunch (taco bus) in Walla Walla after taking care of our errands and decided to travel on to Waitsburg and beyond to Lewis and Clark State Park west of Dayton. 

As you know, when traveling by bike things regarding schedules can be a little iffy. And the heat can throw a monkey wrench into the best laid plans. But today's ride theoretically gained us a day. Barring accidents to equipment and personnel, it looks very likely that we will be in Pomeroy Saturday night and a campground a little beyond Lewiston Sunday night. Temperatures Sunday will be back in the 90s. Monday morning we have the infamous Winchester Grade to look forward to (elevation gain is significant) so have to have an early morning getaway. 

-Sue

4th of July Fun

We had a short, pleasant ride this morning, assisted by a brisk tailwind. We passed McNary dam on the Columbia and soon afterwards entered a basalt canyon similar to the Vantage and Grand Coulee areas. Since it was  early morning, the sun was blocked by the hillside and we enjoyed the cool shade alongside the rock walls. A few miles before camp, we left Oregon and the Columbia River in our rear view mirrors.

Yesterday we saw our first magpies, rock wrens, and quail. We see dead rattlesnakes on the road, and I have no desire to wander into weedy, brushy areas to look for more. Let it suffice to say that along the edges beyond the lawns of our campgrounds, it looks definitely "snakey".  The host at today's campground warned us to rattle the thresholds of our tents before crawling out and to be sure to use a flashlight if we are out and about at night.

We heard the yips of coyotes at bedtime last night. This morning a skunk romped by our camp, but fortunately was not interested in investigating us.

One of the joys of a trip such as ours is the conversations with people we meet along the way. Most are nice, some are cranky, and a few are more than a little bit "off". Last night we exchanged stories with a fellow bicycle tourist, a Brit traveling westward alone, who works as a gardener in Switzerland. He loves Switzerland, but can't speak German, so that is the only job he could  get.

Back in Hood River, we enjoyed the hospitality of someone we never met: the friend of a son of someone DeeDee knows who was gone for the weekend and let us stay in his townhouse. Tomorrow night we are staying with a Warm Showers contact of Perry and Carol--very generous of someone to host 7 cycling strangers. He may even cycle out on the highway to escort us into Walla Walla.

It is wonderful to hear from you. Being out of contact from friends and family is the downside of a trip such as ours.

-Sue

July 3

Penstemon between Maryhill and Roosevelt


Got to lovely camp at 10:30 at Plymouth, WA across the river from Umatilla. 50+ miles today, 6:30 departure. Walla Walla on Friday. Then Dayton, Pomeroy, Lewiston around Monday next. 

We will cross back into Oregon briefly in the morning, then back to WA. We see lots of birds. Yesterday had a family of peregrine falcons hunting swallows or swifts on basalt cliff along the road. 

Bodies and equipment are holding up well except that Mark had tire failure yesterday. Fortunately made it to camp. Replacement available in Walla Walla. 

Camps have all had showers except for first night out in the coast range. 

-Sue

7/5/13 Back on track

Lack of connectivity is making my blog posts back up, sorry about that.

Last night the word was "we're a day behind". Even though the overall schedule is not cast in stone we have taken more short days than planned, and some discussion went into how to start making better time. Today we "caught up", had a good day. We "slept in" to a 7:00 departure, and had a swift-ish ride into Walla Walla. After the required stops at bike stores, bakeries, and a taco bus (at which time I triumphantly had my first flat tire), we decided to push on. The one regret was not meeting our warm showers host, but we called to release him to his other activities, and will still look forward to using the system some future time.

We got into the rolling wheat fields today! Just like where I grew up in the Palouse Country. I'd like to find out exactly what is "the Palouse", and what is "the Inland Empire". Anyway, the second half of the day's ride was a back road off of Highway 12, and it was glorious. After a long hill climb I took a photo looking down into the little town of Waitsburg, and thought "this is a big downhill we've earned. A quick shopping for dinner groceries and ice cream bars, a stop at a brew pub, then the last five miles into Lewis And Clark State Park.

~ Carol

7/4/13 Less hot is good

Had some opportunities to photograph pelicans on the Columbia, except for unsafe conditions.

About 10:30 am we arrived at a bucolic RV camp on the Walla Walla River, Hwy 12 a few miles before Touchet, a few more beyond that and we'll be in Walla Walla tomorrow. We thought the price was a little steep for no showers, but figured we're paying it forward so they can install showers for future campers. Also the location suits us, as it breaks up what would have been a long hot slog all the way into WW.
We're looking forward tomorrow to our first dose of hospitality via the website warmshowers.org. All preliminary contacts indicate this will be a excellent experience.

One of of our required shopping duties tomorrow will be replacement tires for Mark, who is way out ahead in the flat tire derby.

Once again we're facing a lazy afternoon with abundant shade and temps today in the mid 80's. happy Independence Day to one and all. I'm missing the festivities at Higher Ground, but not sorry to miss the crash-bang-pop that accompanies it. In that regard I must be approaching the temperament of a dog in my old age.

~ Carol

Margaret's Home Again

I can't say that this dream has died,
Nor is it a blow to my pride.
  But it won't be this season
  For a very good reason,
Which is that I simply can't ride.

I'm asking myself, "Did I fail?
Did I flinch? Chicken out? Did I quail?"
  It takes steady nerves
  To adjust to life's curves:
I chose the right fork in the trail.

I am glued to the posts from my tribe, following their continued adventures with love and admiration!

Early starts are nice

Last night's camp was near the "town" of Roosevelt, beautiful shade on the Columbia. Photos are sunrise in camp, and looking back at 6:15 to see the wind turbines and camp.

Still with a tailwind we made our 50 mile ride and were in camp by 10:30 this morning. It's blessedly a little bit cooler, did not feel seriously overheated. Camping across the river from Umatilla, still on the Columbia which we'll leave tomorrow, at a Corps of Engineers campground. Turns out both camps have the same ownership and the same facilities, but last night's was free and used mainly by farm workers and wind surfers, today's by RVers gearing up for July 4th weekend.

Pelicans on the river today, saw a flight of 3 before leaving camp, and several more along the way.

Unexpected pleasures Department: on our rest day in The Dalles, Perry and I set out to walk to the library (which had wifi far superior to our off-the-rack motel.) Passed a shop which sold unique clothing and had the word "sewing" in the window. It caught my interest because I was looking for a silk scarf to keep my neck shaded from sun and cool when wet, frustrated to find only polyester at Fred Meyers. Went in and explained what I wanted, and she said she might have something that would work, all her fabrics were in the basement, come on down. On the way down she pointed out the historic features of the building, having to do with window tops visible at floor level in the basement having been first floor window tops, before major flooding prompted downtown to be raised up with fill. I loved that she assumed we were interested and had time, and indeed she did not carry on and bore us. Then she found a handsome remnant of silk which she could hem shortly for a reasonable sum. Loved conversing with her, and so much prefer that form of commerce than impersonal box stores, and I have a lovely scarf to remember her by.

This morning we waved at a train engineer who was just starting up after waiting for Amtrak to pass. We made choo choo signals to him. Quite awhile later he passed us again, and gave us a toot toot and big arm wave to send us on our way.

~ Carol

57 miles

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Jul 2, 2013 8:27 PM
Subject: 57 miles

Made it to Roosevelt WA (across Columbia from Arlington). 104 in the shade this afternoon.

Sue

Hot ride on day 7

7/2/13. Left The Dalles at 6:00 am, 77 degrees.  We were 40 miles in at 10:15.  Arrived in camp, 57 miles, at noon, 95 degrees.  This was a personal record high mileage day for me, aided by a good tailwind.  Things seen:  many nice views of Mt. Hood in rear view mirror.  Peregrine falcons.  Wind turbines took over about the time Hood was disappearing.  Tiger swallowtail butterfly in lavender.   Pink penstemon.  Redtail hawk.  Road kill porcupine.  Stone henge.  Maryhill museum from a distance.  Light traffic, even across Biggs bridge, which had narrow shoulder and no separation from traffic, but thankfully no metal grating.   One killer hill from bridge to Stonehenge, rock wrens, no shade trees, although the early ride on I-84 was shaded by the wall.

Mark dealt with a wire in one tire, and the other completely separated its tread, luckily holding enough air to get him into camp.  It would have been treacherous to treat it roadside with no shade.

I feel good, satisfied with my ride today.  We're spending the afternoon trying to stay hydrated and wet enough to stay cool in 102 degree wind, nice shade trees, right on the Columbia river..

Heat continues

In the Columbia Gorge the nominal crest of the Cascades is at Cascade Locks, where Bridge of the Gods crosses the Columbia. However, it wasn't until a few miles east of Hood River yesterday that the landscape really opened up with views more familiar to us in Bend.

We're having our "stay cool, rest up" day in our motel in The Dalles. Sorry to say goodbye to my sister, who left the group this morning.

I had a good discussion with the group this morning about my own anxieties, physical symptoms of which are impolite to mention. Not just because Margaret left, I wondered if I may not be suited for an adventure this far outside my comfort zone. Feeling tighter with the group as a result of the discussion, and more welcome to face, name, even chat with the "monsters under the bed".

In each of the 3 training weeks I did before the trip I biked 100 miles, and this week we've gone over 200. I'm sore but not dangerously so.

The goal tomorrow is a (relatively) short hop to the campground on the Washington side of the Hwy 97 bridge at Biggs, done in the (relatively) cool morning, followed by another short hop the next day. Don't expect to have Internet or leisure to write more for awhile.

~ Carol

Sag Wagon and One Twin Depart

The frustrations of keeping track of cyclists from a car, not knowing where they would ready to stop and stay for the night, the isolation from them during the day, the effort and work of setting up and breaking camp, added to the inability to ride due to medical reasons, became too challenging after a week. All work with none of the pleasures and freedom of cycling. Not sharing the exercise, challenges and satisfactions of their day. Loving the time with them but wrenched apart into unknowns again each morning as they began the day's ride. Unable to prepare for riding in earnest once we got to Montana, and highly uncomfortable with the daily uncertainties.

It was a huge relief to decide to come home. This was a very challenging ride for a novice bike tourist, and I wasn't even riding a bike. The group has been completely understanding and supportive of my decision. We had another day and a half together to sort out gear from the car, say farewells, and cement new friendships for life. They will always be my tribe.

What's next is open. I'm ready for a real vacation after all this work. (Many sag drivers get paid for their efforts.) From home I can start building up strength again as a cyclist. The tribe hopes I can join them again farther down the trail. We'll see.

I'll do my best to keep blogging for them from the news as I get it.

Margaret